Friday morning began at an early hour, with little conversation during ablutions or a hasty meal. By 7:15 we were on the road, and since our route took us directly through the center of Mexico City and ultimately 30 miles to the NE, we were just in time, it seems, to experience rush hour in one of the world´s most populous urban areas. We arrived at Teotihuacan (Tay-Oh-Tee-Hwa-CAN) by about 10:00.
A few words on the history of the place, which dates to at least 200BC. Two thousand years ago, this city was the largest and most important of the western hemisphere. The name means ¨the place where men become gods.¨ The scale of the place is difficult to convey in words, but the site once covered 8 square miles, with up to 125,000 inhabitants. The site is divided by the Avenue of the Dead - a wide and straight, 2 mile long, boulevard on a perfect North-South axis. At the northern end of the Avenue stands the ruins of the Pyramid of the Moon, one of the largest in the world and dating to 200AD. The Pyramid of the Sun, seven-stories tall, stands to the east of the Avenue and on a base of similar dimensions to the Great Pyramid of Egypt (738 feet - more than two football fields). The site has been excavated and heavily restored, with dozens of stone structures, including a Palace Complex and a heavily-carved Temple dedicated to animist deities.

The archeological evidence suggests the immense structures were once entirely stuccoed and decorated in bright white, reds, blacks, and greens. Underfoot, the enormous plazas were paved and whitewashed. A few surviving murals show highly-stylized animal figures, such as jaguars, serpents and birds.
Without benefit of animal power, the pre-Christian inhabitants hand-built the equivalent of a major modern city, including multi-story stone structures, diverted a large river over several miles, and built thousands of dwelling places, factories, granaries, and shops.
By 650AD, the site was abandoned. Since the culture was apparently without any form of written communication, historians have been mystified by the profound collapse of such a significant civilization. After more than half a millenium, the site, which had reverted to the chaos of nature, was rediscovered by the Aztecs. They held it sacred, believing it had been constructed by a race of long-vanished giants.
The weather was nearly perfect, with sun and cloud. The high altitude and cool breezes meant that our challenges were primarily vertical. Our intrepid band of parishoners (more accustomed to a flat terrain) braved the many hundreds of steep and narrow steps to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun. Standing on the summit, a great plain was visible in all directions, encircled with rugged green mountains. From the seven-story peak, we could then grasp the astonishing scale of the place, with its razor straight alignment and perfectly symmetrical structures.
We really know nothing about the creators of this mighty but now-vanished civilization, neither their name nor the reason for their demise. Standing high above the now-lengthening shadows, Isaac Watt´s verses leapt to mind: ("A thousand ages in Thy sight are like an evening gone; short as the watch that ends the night before the rising sun. They fly, forgotten, as a dream dies at the opening day. Time, like an ever-rolling steam, bears all her sons away.")
Whatever spell might have been cast at the summit was quickly broken by the harrowing descent over several hundred feet of unforgiving stone steps, which somehow seemed even more shallow and vertical.
Our late lunch was taken in a superb, hundred-year old restaurant, located at the bottom of a near-by cave, a cool and dry spot to escape the Mexican sun! Everyone overindulged.
Dragging ourselves back to our now-familiar bus, we then drove back through Mexico City afternoon traffic and to the quiet, green Diocesan Center in Cuernava. After a week, the Diocesan Center now feels like home, with the familar welcome sensation upon returning.

When we returned, we found that Bishop Delgado and the family at the Diocesan Center had laid on a great Fiesta, with flower-decked tables, music, and more wonderful Mexican cooking.
At the conclusion of the meal, Bishop Delgado presented each of us with a personal note of thanks and a gift. While the tranformation of the church at Alejandra was dramatic, and the Fiesta given by Father Arturo´s congregation was heart-warming and fun, Bishop Delgado´s simple and immediate words of heart-felt thanks were very deeply moving. At that moment, the many miles of travel and long hours of work vanished, and I was struck by how glad I am to have found myself in this place, in this moment, with these people.